CHOOSING AN ADV TIRE
WHICH ADV TIRE SHOULD I BUY for class?
One of the most common questions I’m confronted with by both experienced and new adventure riders is “which tires should I use?”
The short answer is: if you plan to ride off-pavement, a 50/50 tire or better may provide a traction advantage. Yes, you can mix bias and radial tires on a motorcycle. No, bigger is not better off-road. Yes, 50/50 tires will wear faster than more street focused tires. Yes 50/50+ tires will be louder on pavement and may ‘feel’ less stable. Most importantly, remember you must always give something up to gain something else, so there is no single tire that is perfect in all situations.
There is no simple way to properly answer which tire you should use without gaining more details. If you ever receive an immediate answer from an instructor (or another rider) to this seemingly simple question before they first ascertain the circumstances, factors relating to, intended use and expectations for the tire in question, then they are giving you a generic answer that is not based on your specific needs.
I would not make a decision solely based on someone else’s brand preferences or brand loyalties, and nor should you.
Here are the questions I would need answered to offer you a professional recommendation:
- Do you have a budget?
- Where are you most concerned about having the best performance (ADV travel, street, touring, dirt)?
- Which bike are you putting the tire onto?
- How much do you weigh?
- How much extra weight do you typically ride with (think skid plate, crash guards, panniers, gear, passenger, etc.)
- In which order do you rank the following:
- Price
- Performance
- Longevity
- Brand
- What weather do you intend to ride in (temperature, moisture, etc.)
- What is the most challenging surface you intend to traverse?
- What is the most common surface you intend to ride on?
- Which is more important to you: How the tire feels or how the tire performs?
- How aggressive are you when you ride?
- Have you ever had formal rider training?
- Do you plan to change the tires yourself? If yes, are you proficient?
LEARNING ABOUT ADV TIRES
The four primary factors to consider when purchasing tires are:
Use, performance, price and brand snobbery.
When you are searching for an ADV tire, you will see split designations such as 60/40. The first number is the leaning street bias of the tire, so a 60/40 tire is biased towards having better street performance than off-road performance. Although the manufacturers are consistent with using the street/dirt bias order, you may find this order switched on forums or bike shops who may list the largest bias first. This means it is important to keep track of what order of which bias is being referenced; in less-professional settings, a 90/10 could be street/dirt or dirt/street. However a quick look at the tire tread will likely be self-explanatory.
There are many factors that manufacturers may consider when listing a street/dirt bias (this is not always easily found). This will include tread gap, tire compound and may include cord choice or bias vs radial construction.
WHAT does a 60/40 RATING MEAN?
METHODS TO DETERMINING TIRE TYPE:
1. USING THE TREAD GAP METHOD
This simple method is best to assess what the actual street/dirt rating should be for a tire, and closely follows how tire manufactures rate tires for street/dirt use. Simply measure (visually or physically) the open, non-contact area of the tire. This is the open spaces where the knob or tread does not touch when the tire is on a hard surface.
If roughly 50% of the tire is in contact when parked on pavement, then it would be a 50/50 tire. If 90% of the tire is in contact with the pavement, then it would be a 90/10 tire.
However, a larger gap is not always the easiest way to determine if a tire will be better off-road. A good example of this is the Mitas Enduro Trail (E-07) which visually appears to be more street-focused with a tighter gap pattern than the Mitas Enduro Trail+ (E-07). The Enduro Trail+ has larger tread blocks, big gaps between the blocks and looks more aggressive, but in reality the Enduro Trail (rated 50/50) performs much better in nearly all off-pavement environments than the bigger blocked Mitas Enduro Trail+ (rated 60/40).
2. USING THE ROAD DIFFICULTY METHOD
One way to think about the street/dirt rating is to assess how closely the dirt you intend to ride is to a paved surface.
For example, if a gravel road is 90% similar to a paved road, or only 10% more difficult than a paved road, then a 90/10 tire should be sufficient.
If you leave that unpaved road and get onto an OHV trail intended for side by sides or 4WD vehicles, then it may quickly become 50% or less equal to the paved road in difficulty. In this case, a 50/50 tire would be more sufficient.
If your trail grows even more difficult, it may be ideal to have a 10/90 tire, which would be a street-legal dirt bike level knobby. Knobbies are normally only built in smaller sizes and could only be fitted onto smaller dual sports such as a 650cc single and down. Of course, some ADV riders modify their larger bikes to accommodate smaller, more aggressive tires, but let’s stick with stock wheel sizes here.
Generally speaking, once the trail becomes challenging enough that it is referred to as a ‘Jeep trail’ or even ‘single track’, then you should be looking for street-legal knobbies. There are very few exceptions where an ADV tire is more aggressive than a 50/50 knobby.
WHAT IS YOUR PRIORITY?
The four primary factors to consider when purchasing tires are use, performance, price, and brand snobbery. Before I can recommend a tire to anyone, I must know where these factors fall in the order of importance. If you tell me price is important, but roll your eyes when I suggest an unknown off-brand tire, this is what I mean.
What do you need your tire to do? Prepare your tire for the greatest challenge you will encounter. Be honest in predicting the most challenging environment you intend to ride. I have ridden track days on 50/50 tires and have ridden the Backcountry Discovery Routes (BDRs) on 90/10s, but neither is recommended if you have a choice.
1. USE
The most difficult part here is being honest about what you really want your tires to do. There is no perfect tire! I often get students that buy the Dunlop Trailmax Mission believing it is as good off-pavement as a 50/50 tire or worse, yet have been convinced that their 70/30 tire IS a 50/50. I’m not saying the Mission isn’t a good tire. If you are looking for longevity and ride on dry off-pavement surfaces, but looking for a strong off-road performer, this type of tire isn’t going to work for you. The same is true if you bought the Dunlop Trailmax Raid and expect them to last riding down the interstate or be quiet riding on the street. There is always a compromise.
2. PERFORMANCE
With rare exception, nothing is ever gained without something being lost. Although we all want to buy the perfect tire that is great at everything, that tire simply does not exist. Some tires are great at one thing and ok at other things, such as the Heidenau K60 Scout, with his exceptional ability to last for a very long time, but it’s also marginal in most other aspects. This would be a great tire for riding through South America because you won’t need to buy new tires along the way. Another popular tire is the Michelin Anakee Wild, which performs above average in both off and on pavement, but has a very short life.
As a rider, you need to be honest with yourself on which surfaces and riding conditions you require the highest performance. This may be based on where you spend most of your time, or it could be based on where you are most concerned about having the greatest traction.
If you are a very skilled rider, you might choose the Dunlop Trailmax Mission because you spend a lot of time on the highway and have the skills to overcome its shortcomings off-road. On the other hand, you might be coming to attend one of my training classes and even though you will wear out an Michelin Anakee Wild on the open road, this is a great tire that performs exceptionally well on loose surfaces.
Most unpaved surfaces benefit the rider that uses use a narrow contact area. This is one of the reasons I generally recommend using the smallest tire available that properly fits your rim size. As an example, the BMW R1250GS comes stock with a 170/60-17 tire on a 4.25″ rim but a 150/70-17 on a 4.25″ rim is also a proper fit. If your goal is to improve your offroad performance the 150/70-17 offers an elongated contact area while also reducing unsprung weight that improves suspension function as well as braking and acceleration. These benefits from reduced unsprung weight also applies on paved roads. The discussion of why manufacturers, such as the BMW referred to above) generally install the largest tire possible has more to do with sales and what customers prefer visually. There are rare exceptions where a manufacture will default to the performance over aesthetics such as the Ducati DesertX which comes stock with a 150/70-18 tires on a 4.25″ rim… the smallest properly fitted tire for that rim.
A tire that is a larger size does NOT necessarily mean more contact area. While doing research for a video project on tire contact printing, I discovered that the 140/80-17 Shinko 705 on an F800GS BMW had greater contact area than the Shinko 705 170/70-17 on a R1250GS. This was confirmed after repeated testing while monitoring tire temperature, ambient air temperature, tire loading, and tire pressure. Given the tires were both the same age on the same motorcycle, the different in contact area had to be affected by construction factors such as compound.
One of the most common errors riders make when selecting an ADV motorcycle tire is choosing a tire based on the percentage of where they plan to ride most often rather than where they need to tire to perform the best. If you only riding on dirt 10% of the time but that dirt is extreme, then you may need a 30/70 tire and not a 90/10.
If you intend to ride on unpaved roads only 10% of the time, many riders choose a 90/10 tire, thinking it means 90% road, 10% dirt. However this is a dangerous failure in decision making. The critical flaw here is, even if the ratio of riding appears to be correct, the missing consideration is how difficult that 10% of off-road riding will be.
Tire names can also be misleading. Manufacturers will sometimes name or label tires that are unrealistic for its actual performance. For example, in the image of me riding a BMW F800GS on the track, the Pirelli Scorpion Trail II tires (listed as a 95/5) are sold as “trail” tires, despite being very well suited for the road or racetrack and poorly suited for anything off pavement other than dry hard packed surfaces.
Tire gap is important but it is not the only consideration. Gap is important when you need grip on soft surfaces such as much or sand or surfaces but may not be helpful on surfaces that need friction for traction such as slick rock or wet surfaces. Meaning the two main types of traction off-road are friction or thrust.
A. INTERNAL DESIGN
Internal design is another adventure motorcycle tire design consideration that isn’t visible to you as the buyer. The materials, layers, and other engineered factors may give the tire a stiffer sidewall (making it more resistant to rim damage) or a more compliant sidewall (giving you pliability that can enhance performance features at the risk of sacrificing protection).
Bias ply tires (crossply or cross belt) vs radial tires:
Bias ply tires still exist heavily in the ADV tire world and for good reason. Bias ply tires have cords banded in a crisscross pattern of 30 degrees to 45 degrees, creating a uniform thickness around the tire. This may have the disadvantage on the street of creating a rougher ride, but offer the advantage off-road of exceptional strength in the sidewall and a high resistance to punctures. Although bias tires are more resistant to damage, this is exchanged for increased weight.
Bias tire pros: Strong sidewall, puncture resistant, handles high loads well, improves lifespan, sidewall stability is greater at lower tire pressures.
Radial tires use cords or belts running perpendicular to the tire giving the ability for the sidewall and tread to have different properties. These are more common on wider tires and higher speed rated tires. Although radials can reduce unsprung weight and offer higher street performance, they are more susceptible to sidewall punctures and are often (not recommended) to be used with tubes.
Radial tire pros: Lighter weight, improved wet weather properties, excellent all around performance
In general, bias ply tires get the nod if your goal is to ride off-road.
Radial tires and bias ply tires can be mixed safely on a motorcycle; many bikes are sold with OEM tires that are mixed. The grandfather of ADV tires, the Continental TKC 80 Twinduro as well the more modern designs of the Bridgestone AX41 Adventurecross, come mixed as both radial and bias ply depending on the tire size. This is also common amongst other manufactures such as Metzeler, Michelin and Dunlop.
To easily identify if a tire is radial of bias ply, look at the tire sizing and it will be listed between the aspect ratio and rim diameter. A radial tire will always be marked with an “R” whereas a bias ply will have a “B” or nothing at all.
Example: 160/60ZR-17 is a high speed rated radial tire as indicated by the “R”. 150/70-17 or 150/70B-17 would be a bias ply construction as indicated by the “B” or absence of a letter.
b. TIRE COMPOUND
Tire compound is independent of tread gap and certain tire compounds may be used to improve the tire’s resistance to “chunking” in rocks, more soft for cornering on the street or climbing slick rocks, or more resistant to rounding off the sharp edges needed for traction off-pavement. There is no way to know this other than manufacturer claims, reviews and experience. Sometimes the names may give it away, but that can be misleading.
As an example the Dunlop D908RR and the MotoZ Tractionator Rallz are both long-wearing 50/50 tires with hard wearing compounds that do well in deserts and rocky environments and offer longer life on the pavement than the average 50/50 tire, but they are dangerously compromised on surfaces that do better with friction traction over thrust such as slick rock or wet roads. On the other hand, the popular Michelin Anakee Wild is a fantastic performing tire on pavement, in sand, rock and dirt but is a premium-priced tire that wears quickly. So, what is most important to you?
c. TREAD DEPTH
Tread depth is also a factor in off-road traction by allowing tires to dig into soft surfaces in order to increase grip or thrust. Most ADV tires have shallow channels compared to dirt bike tires because the tire manufacturers need to balance the off-road performance with on-road performance. After all, we are on adventure or dual-sport motorcycles, not dedicated dirt bikes. The manufacturers must also meet DOT Guidelines for traction, speed ratings and stability while balancing off-pavement grip. A tall, narrow traction knob may be ideal in deep mud but when you reach a hard surface such as asphalt, rock, or even hard-packed gravel, it can become dangerously unstable.
3. PRICE
Before opting for a cheaper tire or skipping on one that is more expensive. You have to consider the factors of lifecycle vs purchase price. Lifecycle is considering how much a tire will cost you over its entire lifecycle? If you buy a tire that is priced 50% less than its competitor, but lasts half as long, you would consider these tires equal in lifecycle however when factoring in other considerations such as installation, shipping cost, disposal fees and taxes, the seemingly more expensive tire that lasts twice as long may actually be cheaper.
An example the Motoz Tractionator Adventure vs. Kenda K784 Big Block. In this case the Motoz cost over double the cost of the Kenda however it also boast almost twice the lifespan. If you pay for tire changes the cost and convenience of not having to change your tire as frequently may be a better buy for you. If you change your own tires or if your tires age out before they wear out then the the Kenda gives you the performance advantage of a softer compound for the road and a more frequent opportunity to have “fresh” knobbies for the dirt.
If you fail to purchase tires that best meet your needs, you may end up replacing them prematurely as is often the case with OEM tires. Researching and considering what you value most will help you establish a realistic budget and spend more wisely on you next set of tires.
An example close to my heart is the new ADV rider who chooses to attend one of my classes, but doesn’t purchase the tires that will help them get the most from their learning experience. A tire that offers this rider traction advantages will help them get the most out of their training experience with me by building confidence more rapidly as proper tires will reduce the number of tipovers, slideouts, and gives more latitude for errors while learning. Riders that train with me make a significant investment in time and money to take a class or tour with me, it is in their best interest and mine to have them equip their motorcycle with tires that will serve them best for developing their riding skills.
ADDITIONAL CONSIDERATIONS
WEIGHT OF THE LOADED MOTORCYCLE
Simply put, how much you weigh and the weight you add to your motorcycle matters. You need to ensure that your tires carry the proper weight rating. Using the GVWR is the simplest way to do this or you can add up the weight of you and your bike with fuel and all the extras you have added such as crash protection and temporary loads like a passenger and/or travel gear.
Weight ratings are seldom an issue when sizing tires to your stock rims but can become something needing attention if you have a modified bike with narrower rims than factory.
Besides tire load rating and traction considerations, a particular tire may offer more resistance to rim damage in the case of heavier loads, or be more compliant to flex in the case of lighter loads such as deciding between a bias ply tire or a radial.
WHICH BIKE ARE YOU PUTTING THE TIRE ON?
Different tire models may come in specific sizes, meaning a tire I might recommend may not be available for your motorcycle. Also, the same tire in different sizes may perform very differently. For example, a Continental TKC80 on a 21″ rim performs quite well on pavement, but lacks the off-road performance that the same tire on a 19″ rim has, offering a much larger gap between traction knobs than the 21″ size.
Besides size and weight of the motorcycle, how much power is going out may also alter my recommendation. Very high horsepower motorcycles like the Ducati Multistrada V4 S with its 170hp can quickly wear out a highly dirt-focused tire as well having as more limited fit options.
FEEL VS PERFORMANCE
It is difficult to be honest when you ask yourself whether how the tire feels or how the tire performs is most important. More than once I have helped a rider select the tire they said they wanted (performance prioritized) only to return to me unhappy with how the tire feels. A tire with maximum cornering traction isn’t always the one that feels the most planted. Be honest with yourself when answering this question or you may be very disappointed.
Tread depth and block size may also be a consideration here. Generally speaking larger tread blocks and shallower tread depth provide more stable handling on hard surfaces such as pavement whereas smaller blocks, deeper tread and wider gaps can provide significantly better traction in soft terrain but at the expense of a bike that feels unstable on pavement.
With this in mind you can find tires like the Anakee Wild that can perform very well on pavement and on dirt but at the expense of lifespan and the feel of stability. Although the Wild is a relatively stable ADV tire on the pavement, however when it is pushed hard or taken to higher speeds of over 85mph, it can “feel” much less stable. Even though the bike is indeed stable, the pronounced feel (weave) of directional correction of rake and trail can be very unnerving.
AN AGGRESSIVE TIRE
How aggressive are you when you ride? The question is, how aggressive are YOU, not necessarily how aggressive is the terrain. Being aggressive means how fast and proactive you are, not a rider who rides fast and hard.
A person who rides fast and hard often hits hard edges and likes to spin the rear tire. This person will need a different tire than a skilled rider who rides fast, but better understands how to read and utilize terrain to avoid hard hits and has a mastery of the clutch and throttle to minimize wheel spin even in low traction environments.
Both riders here are aggressive: one is an aggressive rider; the other rides aggressively. Tire choice may be different with an aggressive rider favoring a harder compound and bias ply tires to better protect the rims and resist wear with spinning out. The one who rides aggressively may choose a tire with softer sidewalls like a radial, giving up the rim protection in exchange for a smoother ride and higher traction levels, but doesn’t stand up as well to an abusive riding style.
RIDER TRAINING
If you have taken formal rider education, this could affect your riding style and the type of tire that serves you best. As an example my training is “traveler” based rather than about riding fast. Therefore much of my training focuses on how to ride in a way that reduces risk of injury or damage to you and your motorcycle while also conserving energy. Technique over brute force or speed means that you have far less impact, and no tire spins meaning you can select a tire with softer sidewalls and reduced traction in many situations where others may rely on tires over technique.
TIRE CHANGES
Not all tires are equal in difficulty when installing. Some tires can be notably more difficult than others. If you are new to tire changes, choosing a tire that is more pliable such as a Kenda Big Block K784 over a tire with a heavier sidewall like the Heidenau K60 Ranger could influnce your choice. For those skilled at changing tires, this is no longer an issue.
Here is a video on tire changing if this is something you would like to learn.
WEATHER MATTERS
Determining the worst weather you may ride in is critical. A dry trail can easily be ridden on a 70/30 tire like the Shinko 705 or Continental TKC70, but if you add a little rain, the same trail can quickly become not just challenging but dangerous. Even with one of the most dirt-aggressive ADV tires such as the Motoz Tractionator RallZ, a wet trail can make a normally easy ride very difficult.
This is true on pavement as well. Many dirt-focused tires have design features and compounds ideal for a long life off-pavement, such as the aforementioned Motoz Tractionator RallZ, or may have great long-life properties such as the Dunlop Trailmax Mission, but on wet pavement may become quite festive at best, and dangerous at worst.
Wet streets are ridden best on more street-focused tires such as the Michelin Anakee 3 and its equals. This tire is out of its element in the dirt, but one of the best for the pavement.
Tire Pressure
Bike OEM vs Tire OEM tire pressure recommendations.
Unless you are running OEM tires it is recommended to refer to the tire manufacture for recommended pressures. Although most tire manufactures will refer to the OEM pressures this is not always the case. Pressure recommendations are normally solo, with a passenger or load and in some cases off-road. I did a video here about tire pressures and how they relate to contact area. The results coupled with manufacture recommendations showed that on the front tire we are normally 10%-15% below the maximum pressure and on the rear we are at the maximum load pressure or down 10%-15%. It was also discovered that below 20% often results in a severe lack of rim protection, decreased stability and increased deflection. In short when the tires are engineered the amount of pressure inside the tire is calculated. We are actually riding on a cushion of air and if it is reduced too far the tires can no longer function as they were designed. Be careful about the “air down” advice that is so prolific on the internet and amongst riders. Your goal is NOT to air down but rather to create the most efficient air cushion of air to maintain tire stability, control tire temperature and provide rim protection.
Pressure for maximum load vs optimal pressure:
On heavy ADV bikes it is common to see the maximum load pressure be the pressure that is recommended however you will seldom see the maximum load pressure recommended for the front tire. The maximum pressure is not the maximum pressure of the tire but rather the pressure at which the tire what tested for it’s load rating. Increasing or decreasing the air pressure alters that maximum load. As a general rule there are seldom advantages to running pressures beyond the maximum load pressure. I normally recommend not reducing tire pressure more than 10%-15% from the maximum load pressure assuming you have no guidance from the tire manufacture. If you are planning on running lower pressures you should contact the tire manufacture for their guidance.
Tube type vs tubeless type tires:
Generally speaking you choose the tire type that matches your rim type. This is most critical with a tube type rim but is also consideration if you want to use a tubeless type tire on a tube type rim.
Tube type tires:
If you have a tube type tire you must run a tube in the tire even if you are running it on a tubeless rim. Tube tire are not designed to seat on the bead the same as a tubeless tire. If you have a tube type rim and seal the spokes to create a tubeless option this could be unsafe as the bead on a tubeless rim is designed differently than a tube type rim where the pressurized tube is used to hold the tire on the rim whereas as a tubeless rim there is a raised lip to assist in keeping the tire seated on the bead in the case of a flat tire.
Pros: Tube tires are most often on spoked rims which handle the abuse of rough terrain better than cast rims. Spokes are also often lighter than cast rims giving an unsprung weight advantage however it is becoming far more common on large adventure bikes to see tubeless spoked rims.
Tubeless type tires:
These tires generally have the advantage of being lighter, running cooler and being safer in the case of a flat tire. Tubeless tires are more likely to deflate slower than a tube tire when being punctured. You can safely run a tube in a tubeless type tire if you need to but is doing so you lose all the advantages of the tubeless tire over a tubed tire. Running a tube in a tubeless tire can be done safely if you have a spoked rim that is not a tubeless type rim and the only (or preferred) tire is a tubeless type tire. If you do run a tube in a tubeless type tire it is recommended to treat the tire as if both the load and speed rating are one below the sidewall ratings. This is primarily due to the extra heat that is created through the extra friction and material. When possible run tubeless tires on tubeless rims and tube type tires on tube type rims.
Pros: Tubeless tires are generally lighter, run cooler and can be safer in the case of a flat tire.